Error messages

"Not available on this TV"

Your TV doesn't offer this feature to remote apps, so we've hidden or disabled it. Common examples:

• Exact volume level on Roku (it only accepts volume up and down), and on Samsung TVs whose media renderer is switched off.
• 2014–2015 Samsung TVs (H and J series), which need an encrypted PIN pairing the app doesn't support yet.
• Input switching on Roku streaming sticks (only Roku TVs have inputs).
• App list on Google TV (we show popular apps you can launch instead).
• Fire TV Stick 4K Select and other Fire TVs with Vega OS, which have no ADB debugging. Other Fire TV models work.
• Mute, number keys and the inputs list on Apple TV. Its volume buttons work only when the Apple TV controls the volume of your TV or receiver.
• Volume when your TV's sound goes to a soundbar over optical or ARC; use the soundbar's own remote or the TV's volume keys.

This is a limit of the TV, not a setting you've missed.

"Can't reach your TV"

The app knows your TV but can't reach it right now. Usually:

• The TV is off or unplugged. Try Power in the app (see Turning your TV on from the app), or use the TV's remote once.
• Your iPhone is on a different Wi-Fi, mobile data, or a guest network.
• A VPN is on.
• The TV got a new IP address from the router. The app looks for the TV again by itself and updates the address; if the message stays, tap Try Again.

If it keeps happening, giving the TV a fixed (reserved) IP address in your router's settings helps.

"Your TV isn't answering"

The TV received the request but took too long to answer. This often happens right after the TV turns on, while it's updating, or on busy Wi-Fi.

• Wait a few seconds and try again.
• If your TV is updating its software, let it finish.
• Restart the TV (unplug it for 30 seconds) if it keeps timing out.
• Weak Wi-Fi? Moving the router closer or connecting the TV with an Ethernet cable makes the remote much snappier.

"Pairing was declined"

The TV said no to the connection, either because Deny/Decline was pressed or the prompt timed out.

• Samsung: remove TVkip from Settings > General > External Device Manager > Device Connection Manager > Device List, then pair again and press Allow.
• LG: in the app's Your TVs list, swipe left on the TV and tap Remove, wait a minute, add the TV again and press Accept.
• Google TV: the code screen was closed on the TV. Tap Pair Again to get a new code.
• Fire TV: choose OK when the Fire TV asks "Allow USB debugging?", and tick Always allow from this computer so it doesn't ask every time. Chose Cancel? Tap Pair Again. No prompt? Press Home on the Fire TV remote first; it can't show behind the screensaver.
• Sony, Vizio, Hisense VIDAA: the PIN on the TV expired (after about a minute). Tap Pair Again for a new one.
• Apple TV: the PIN screen was closed on the Apple TV, or it was busy pairing with another device. Press a button on the Siri Remote, then tap Pair Again for a new PIN.

Keep the TV's own remote handy for this one step.

"That code didn't match"

The code you typed doesn't match the one on the TV.

• Google TV codes are 6 characters, numbers 0–9 and letters A–F only. A "0" is a zero, never the letter O.
• LG PINs are 6 digits.
• Sony BRAVIA, Vizio, Hisense VIDAA and Apple TV PINs are 4 digits. VIDAA allows three tries per code.
• Sony with a pre-shared key: the key must match IP control > Pre-Shared Key on the TV exactly, including upper and lower case. 2025 models in Europe need at least 16 characters.
• Each code works once. If the code on screen changed, type the new one.

Tap Pair Again to get a fresh code.

"Pair your TV again"

The TV no longer recognizes the app. This happens after:

• a factory reset or major software update on the TV,
• removing TVkip from the TV's device list,
• restoring your iPhone from a backup (pairing keys stay in the iPhone's Keychain).
• on newer Fire TV models, a week without using the app.

Tap Pair Again and follow the steps for your brand. Your TV's name, room and layout are kept.

"Your TV blocked the remote"

The TV is reachable but has phone control turned off.

• Roku: Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Control by mobile apps > Network access → Enabled (Default on older Roku software). Limited, which newer Roku software often starts with, ignores the buttons. If the app says a Roku TV is in standby, turn it on with its own remote and turn on Settings > System > Power > Fast TV start.
• Samsung: Settings > General > External Device Manager > Device Connection Manager → make sure TVkip is set to Allow.
• LG: make sure LG Connect Apps / Mobile TV On is enabled.
• Sony BRAVIA: turn on Control remotely and IP control (Settings > BRAVIA Settings > IP control on 2025 models, Settings > Network & Internet > Home network > IP control on others). If the app says the TV is in standby, tap Power; if it didn't turn on, turn on Remote start.
• Fire TV: Settings > My Fire TV > Developer Options > ADB debugging → On.
• Apple TV: if too many devices are paired, remove ones you no longer use in Settings > Remotes and Devices > Remote App and Devices on the Apple TV. After several wrong PINs, or while it's pairing with another device, wait a moment.
• Hisense VIDAA: turn on Content Sharing in Settings > System > Application Settings (2024: Settings > Connection > Mobile Device Connection; 2025: Settings > Connection > Multimedia Device Connection), and check the TV's date and time. If the app says the TV only accepts Hisense's own app, see Connecting a Hisense VIDAA TV.
• Google TV / Android TV: the TV's Android TV Remote Service is too old or stuck. Update it in Settings > Apps > See all apps > Show system apps > Android TV Remote Service, or choose Clear storage there and restart the TV.

Then tap Try Again.

"Not connected"

The remote isn't connected to a TV at the moment. The app reconnects by itself when you come back to it; if you still see this:

• Tap Offline · Reconnect under the TV name at the top to reconnect, or tap the TV name to pick another TV.
• Check that the TV is on and your iPhone is on home Wi-Fi.
• Widgets, Control Center and the Watch connect on demand, so the first press after a long break can take a moment.

"Something went wrong"

Your TV answered in a way we didn't expect. This usually means a recent TV software update changed something.

• Restart the TV and the app, then try again.
• Make sure TVkip is up to date in the App Store.
• Help us fix it fast: go to Settings > Help > Diagnostics and tap Send Report. It opens an email with your TV model, the error and what the app last asked the TV, ready for you to review, with no TV names, IP addresses or typed text. We aim to ship fixes for TV updates within 48 hours, often without an app update.

"Temporarily unavailable"

We've temporarily switched off this feature for your type of TV, because a recent TV software update made it misbehave. Switching it off protects your TV from glitches while we fix it.

• Everything else keeps working.
• It turns back on by itself once the fix is ready; you don't need to do anything.
• Follow progress at tvkip.com/help/.